Domaine Louis Chenu – BURGHOUND.COM Allen Meadows

Bourgogne 2012 – 87
Chorey-lès-Beaune 2012 – 87
Savignv-lès-Beaune Vieilles Vignes 2012 – 89
Savignv-lès-Beaune « Aux Clous » 2012 – 90
Savignv-lès-Beaune « HautsJarrons » 2012 – 91
Savignv-lès-Beaune « Les Lavières » 2012 – 90
Savignv-lès-Beaune « Les Talmettes » 2012 –89

For the last ten years sisters Juliette and Caroline Chenu have worked together at their 9.5 ha certified bio domaine where their father Louis still lends the occasional helping hand. Louis is the great grandson of the founder, another Louis, who bought the domaine in 1914. Juliette is responsible for the vines and winemaking whereas Caroline handles the administrative and marketing aspects. The domaine’s vines are 100% based in Savigny except for one vineyard in Chorey. The fruit is hand-harvested, sorted in both the vineyards and again althe cuverie, completely destemmed and then given a cold soak of 3 to 5 days. The cuvaison including the pre-fermentation cool maceration lasts for about 14 days and only native yeasts are employed. Once the new wine is finished it is given a 3 to 5 day period for the lees to settle and then racked into barrel of which only around 15% is new. The élevage period lasts for 10 to 12 months and the wines are then bottled under natural cork without fining or filtration. Juliette explained ihat « our goal is to allow the tenoirs to clearly express themselves in wines that are about tenderness and finesse. You could say that we treat the fruit softly but I like to think of it as just respecting the vines, fruit and ultimately the wines. » I believe this to be an apt description of the Chenu wines are they are indeed wines of elegance and finesse. lf you aren’t familiar with the wines they are well worth exploring, particularly if you enjoy refined Savigny that can be enjoyed young or aged to good effect too.

2012 Bourgogne : An expressive and very fresh nose features notes of black cherry, plum and plenty of earth character. There ts good volume and solid phenolic maturity to the delicious and solidly complex flavors that offer fine length and only a hint of rusticity. This fleshy and satisfying effort should drink well early yet offers a few years of upside development potential as well. 87/2016+

2012 Chorey-lès-Beaune : Light ruby. An exuberant nose of bright red cherry, raspberry and soft earth scents precedes delicious light weight flavors that don’t possess the same concentration or ripeness as the Bourgogne though they are more precise. This delicious effort could also be enjoyed young or held for a few years first. 87/2016+

2012 Saviqny-lès-Beaune Vieilles Vignes : A more deeply pitched nose offers up notes of various dark berries, earth and a hint of the sauvage. There is a lovely sense of underlying tension to the supple and round middle weight flavors that are shaped by relatively fine-grained tannins on the clean and saline-inflected finish. This is really quite good and worth considering. 89/2017+

2012 Saviqny-lès-Beaune « Les Talmettes » : Medium ruby. A wonderfully fresh and cool nose mixes notes of cherry, raspberry and warm earth. This is also relatively refined with good intensity to the precise and punchy medium weight flavors that culminate in a clean finish that is dry in the best sense. This is definitely finer than the old vines cuvée but not necessarily any more complex. 89/2017+

2012 Saviqny-lès-Beaune « Les Lavières » : A relatively high-toned nose of red pit fruit scents that are liberally laced with spice and earth nuances. The light to barely middle weight and ultra-pure flavors exude a fine minerality on the balanced and solidly persistent finish. The supporting structure is also quite fine and this is a lacy wine of finesse, indeed even delicacy. 90/2018+

2012 Saviqny-lès-Beaune « Aux Clous »: A slightly more complex nose displays notes of red and dark pinot fruit as well as earth and sauvage hints. This is also almost delicate with good vibrancy and detail to the delicious, refreshing and intense medium-bodied flavors that possess fine balance on the lingering finish. An understated and pure effort. 90/2018+

2012 Saviqny-lès-Beaune « Hauts-Jarrons » : This possesses the most complex nose of the range with its aromas of red currant, dark raspberry, anise, sandalwood and plenty of Savigny style earth. There is good volume and punch to the middle weight flavors that remain pure and elegant while delivering excellent length. This isn’t a particularly powerful effort but the balance is impeccable. Good stuff and well worth considering. 91/2019+

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Publié par admin le 8 février 2016

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